Last week during our World AIDS Day travels, Alina and I got to go to Gyumri. She had never been and while I had been twice, had never stayed for more than a few hours or really looked around. Gyumri (named Alexandropol during Soviet times) is the second largest city in Armenia and is often referred to as the cultural capital. It was heavily destroyed in the 1988 earthquake that devestated much of northern Armenia so it has a unique blend of restored, historical buildings and modern conveniences.
We arrived in the late morning and after warming ourselves up with Bobbie's delicious Thanksgiving leftovers, Alina, Madison (an A22 who did two World AIDS Day presentations with us) and I set off to find "Vartanants Square." Below are some of the photos we took along the way.
We arrived in the late morning and after warming ourselves up with Bobbie's delicious Thanksgiving leftovers, Alina, Madison (an A22 who did two World AIDS Day presentations with us) and I set off to find "Vartanants Square." Below are some of the photos we took along the way.
Mainly, we wanted to see the Cathedral of the Holy Mother of God. It is a famous black church on the square, that was gloriously restored from the earthquake. After our leisurely walk, we found the church and went inside, but not before remarking "We're quite underdressed. Everyone looks so nice!" Despite our winter gear and scuffed shoes, we were allowed inside.
It was beautiful. The ceiling reached upwards letting in natural light. Where the natural light didn't hit, candles adored the dark corners and crevices. The alter was by far one of the most ornate I've seen in Armenia. Decorated in gold, it was painted with scenes from the bible and had velvet tapestries. It was a far cry from the simple, bare alters of the Noyemberyan area or the completely empty podiums of the historical churches around the country.
As we explored the nooks and canies of the church, I looked up from behind my camera to see a bride being led down the isle towards the alter, a groom waiting for her. WHOOPS!!! We were unknowingly attending a wedding!
This was my second unintentional wedding crashing experience, but it was by far the most educational. With Alina there, she was able to quietly explain to Madison and I the subtlies of the ceremony which was quick, but quite beautiful.
It was beautiful. The ceiling reached upwards letting in natural light. Where the natural light didn't hit, candles adored the dark corners and crevices. The alter was by far one of the most ornate I've seen in Armenia. Decorated in gold, it was painted with scenes from the bible and had velvet tapestries. It was a far cry from the simple, bare alters of the Noyemberyan area or the completely empty podiums of the historical churches around the country.
As we explored the nooks and canies of the church, I looked up from behind my camera to see a bride being led down the isle towards the alter, a groom waiting for her. WHOOPS!!! We were unknowingly attending a wedding!
This was my second unintentional wedding crashing experience, but it was by far the most educational. With Alina there, she was able to quietly explain to Madison and I the subtlies of the ceremony which was quick, but quite beautiful.
They exchange rings as a symbol of unity during the ceremony as we do, but the biggest difference in the ceremony between an Armenian Apostolic Church wedding and an American wedding is that a kiss is not the pinicle of the ceremony. "Crowning" is. The priests put two crowns on the head of the bride and groom as symbols of their home being their kingdom. They touch foreheads as the "best man" stands in front of them, holding a golden cross over their heads.
The best man concept is also quite different than we are used to. The "best man" and "maid of honor" are usually a married couple close to the newly married couple who have agreed to serve them and help them with their marriage. Godparents for children would be the closest thing we have in America.
After the crowning, they drink wine from a common cup together with the couple chosen as their "godparents." The wedding ceremony ends when the priest blesses the couple. He asks god to "protect them under the shadow of thy holy and honorable cross in peace". They then turn to the crowd and begin a recieving line right at the alter.
The ceremony itself is beautiful, but is not my favorite part of the wedding. My favorite part is the procession! While I've been witnessed at least 30-40 processions, this was the first I had my camera ready for and it was magnificent.
The best man concept is also quite different than we are used to. The "best man" and "maid of honor" are usually a married couple close to the newly married couple who have agreed to serve them and help them with their marriage. Godparents for children would be the closest thing we have in America.
After the crowning, they drink wine from a common cup together with the couple chosen as their "godparents." The wedding ceremony ends when the priest blesses the couple. He asks god to "protect them under the shadow of thy holy and honorable cross in peace". They then turn to the crowd and begin a recieving line right at the alter.
The ceremony itself is beautiful, but is not my favorite part of the wedding. My favorite part is the procession! While I've been witnessed at least 30-40 processions, this was the first I had my camera ready for and it was magnificent.
Now I bet you are watching that thinking, what the heck is this? It's the procession! The procession starts at the grooms house. They decorate their cars and drive very slowly while honking the horn to let people know that a wedding is happening. After going to pick up the bride they lead the bridal party to the church. After the wedding the procession also leads the bride and groom to their reception. The lead car is decorated with a dead fox that symbolizes "bringing news" to the town that the wedding is happening. This act is called "chasing the fox."
If the battery on my camera hadn't died, I could have shown you a young man holding an object out of the limo window. He was the chosen bachelor who is entrusted with guarding a sword for the entire wedding ceremony. The sword is decorated with fruit and coins. Each time it is stolen by a guest, he has to pay the guest who has stolen it and gets it returned. Clearly this bachelor was having the time of his life with this sword, swinging it out the window and cheering to all the ladies walking along the street.
They then do three laps around the town square and head off to the reception. So I suppose we didn't quite crash the entire party, but it was enough for us to learn a lot more about Armenian weddings and have a wonderful afternoon.
They then do three laps around the town square and head off to the reception. So I suppose we didn't quite crash the entire party, but it was enough for us to learn a lot more about Armenian weddings and have a wonderful afternoon.